We moved in on Friday and have officially been residents of Belfast for 4 days now. It has been a very full 4 days and doesn't show any signs of slowing. There is a lot to tell from our last night in Coleraine to our first day at our internship sites so I had better type fast so that I can finish this before I have to write papers and do work and stuff. Who knew that we had to do any of that while we are here?
Thursday was our last night as a big group for awhile. Eight of us are living in Belfast and the other five are living in Derry. I was really sad to split into two groups. It felt like after three weeks we were well connected as a group and we were getting more comfortable all the time and then we had to move and go and change things. I'm hoping the separate living and experiences won't change the group dynamic too much. I guess time will tell. We went out one last time to the Anchor on Thursday night to hear some traditional Irish music. It was my favorite night here so far! Like the stupid Americans in a foreign country that we are we danced...and we were the only ones who danced...and we didn't know how to dance correctly. At first it was just 4 of the girls dancing. Then Jordan and Justin came and joined us and we polkaed. Later in the night Justin danced with me. Justin has taken a ballroom class so he knew more what he was doing. All I had to do was point my toes, pick up my feet and follow. We were both dressed in red on top and black on bottom. We looked like we were entering a dance contest. We had all eyes in the pub on us and it was SO MUCH FUN!!! A few songs later the band played a well-known folk song and I danced with an Irish guy named Kevin who taught me the actual dance. Brie and I got to know the band a little bit and I think we made quite the lasting impression on the Anchor. We will be missed...at least until we return in May.
We left for Belfast bright and early on Friday morning and checked into our flat at Stranmillis College. We got an 8-person flat that comprises an entire floor of the building we live in. Each room has its own bathroom complete with a good-sized shower. We share a kitchen and a bathtub. The flat has recently been renovated and they are very nice. We were very excited when we arrived and we finally have internet in our rooms!!! It's a little spotty, but we don't have to walk a couple of blocks to get it. This makes life so much easier for the spoiled Americans who can't live without their wireless ; )
We spent the rest of Friday settling in and doing some grocery shopping and unpacking. We decided to throw a fiesta for our first night in Belfast so we cooked fajitas and had rice and chips and salsa. It was delicious and an excellent start to our time here. I passed on going out Friday night. I was still exhausted from Thursday and I'm always trying to save money when I can.
We spent Saturday exploring the city and generally wandering around. We were lucky to have such nice weather. The impression that Belfast has left on us might not be nearly as nice if we were battling the wind and rain (like we were today incidentally). We spent most of the afternoon shopping and mingling with the crowds and crowds of people. My one goal on Saturday was to watch the big rugby match in a pub with all the local Irish people. Ireland played England and expectations were high. After a quick stop at McDonald's for a snack (I know, I know, I didn't want to go there, but we needed something quick and cheap and not crowded) we managed to snag a much coveted table at The Kitchen Bar in Belfast city center. We watched the rugby match with some chips and a Guinness and I cannot imagine a much better way to spend a Saturday afternoon in Belfast. Rugby is so much more entertaining to watch than American football and the fans say much funnier things here when they have had a bit to drink. They are much more original than your typical NFL drunks. It is somehow charming. We walked home from the pub after the match and that about did it for me for the night. I had a grilled cheese - or cheese toastie - and relaxed. We determined that the walk into the city center took about 30 minutes. However, once we made it to the center all the entertainment and shopping was pretty centralized. It wasn't too bad and the walking doesn't hurt any of us (at least on Saturday it didn't).
Sunday was a big day. None of you probably knows who Ian Paisley is, but I need to give you a very simple summary to impress upon you the importance of the day. Reverend Ian Paisley has been the most prominent political figure in Northern Ireland for probably the last 40 years and he is the most outspoken Unionist commentator. He is the former First Minister of the power-sharing government in Northern Ireland. This is the highest office and he has only recently stepped down. He is the founder of the Free Presbyterian Church in Northern Ireland. This is a quasi-Presbyterian sect of Protestantism that has gained quite the reputation here. They are a very fundamentalist religion that has managed to mix politics and religion quite effectively. Ian Paisley was one of the foremost advocators for Unionism throughout the Troubles and there is great controversy surrounding his views regarding the Catholic and Nationalist movement. Though he never advocated violence, many paramilitaries claim to be inspired by Ian Paisley to join the various Loyalist organizations. In recent years his views have moderated quite substantially. Once thought never to waver in his belief in a Unionist Northern Ireland, Paisley became the first head of a power-sharing government. He served with former enemy Martin McGuinness and preaches a message of peace and efforts toward agreement today. It is amazing to see what circumstances and prolonged violence can do to people. Apart from his history Ian Paisley is still seen as very radical today because of his views toward Catholicism, homosexuality, abortion, and the like. Many more liberal minded people in Northern Ireland (including many Republicans) still harbor great hatred toward him and many of his own side have begun to see him as too moderate and as yielding to the demands of the other side. Despite the ill feelings toward him Ian Paisley is still highly respected by many and those in his church remain his devoted followers. Regardless of all feelings whether good or bad he remains a celebrity and one of the most well-known names throughout the British isles.
So the short biography got a little long. Everything is so complicated here; it becomes very difficult to condense any information into a bloggable format for a general audience. Anyway, what you need to know is that Ian Paisley is a big, big deal. He has come up time and again in our lectures. His church, the building that he founded, is located in Belfast and he still preaches most of the time. We decided to check it out on Sunday and we walked into East Belfast for the 11:30 service. We got lost and ended up arriving about ten minutes late. We were welcomed enthusiastically by an elder sitting outside the door. However, we had to wait in the entry until the prayer was over so that we could find a seat without disrupting the service. When we were able to enter I expected to see a sanctuary filled with people...and I didn't. There were far fewer people than I would have expected, but they were much more interesting than I expected. All of the women were wearing amazing hats, Kentucky Derby quality hats with flowers and lace and big brims that matched their perfectly coordinated dresses. It was a scene right out of the movies. And there was Ian Paisley atop a giant platform at the front of the church. We entered during the sharing of the peace and were promptly greeted by an elderly man from the congregation. We were seated about 7 rows back from the pulpit, but we were the closest to the front. During the announcements Ian Paisley looked right at us and welcomed all the visitors (we were the only ones). The service was really very beautiful. The hymns were unfamiliar, but the congregation knew how to sing and we caught on easily. The sermon was preached on Malachi chapter 3 and it was not at all what I was expecting. I was listening for a political agenda or undertones, but I found none. The focus was on the text and the worship. This was not the Ian Paisley I had read and heard so much about. After the service was over Ian made his way up the aisle and made a beeline straight toward us. He shook all our hands and welcomed us to his congregation. He wished us a happy stay here in Belfast and welcomed us back any time. I wish I could convey what a big deal this was. It was crazy. This is one of the most hated men in Northern Ireland (by some at least) and certainly one of the most powerful and he was so accessible. There was no security and there were no precautions made for his safety during this service. We were very surprised. He continued on his way after greeting us to catch up with other members of his congregation, but we talked to him again on our way out. We got a picture and some autographs. On an interesting side note he always signs a verse when he signs his name. He gave us the verses Ephesians 6:19-20. They read as follows "Pray also for me, that whenever I open my mouth, words may be given to me so that I will fearlessly make known the mystery of the gospel, for which I am an ambassador in chains. Pray that I may declare it fearlessly as I should." It was so exciting and he was so nice and welcoming. It really changes your perception of a person to hear about all that they have done and all that people believe they are and then to juxtapose that impression with your actual encounter with that person. It's all part of making everything more confusing here day by day. I don't know if I have said this yet, but they told us time and again over the first few days that we were here: If you aren't confused, then you aren't understanding the conflict...or something to that effect.
I was really hoping that I would have time tonight to talk about my first day at my internship, but it's getting late and I have to work in the morning so that will have to wait until tomorrow perhaps. I just got too caught up with talking about Ian Paisley. I know you're all on the edge of your seats. Hope all is well! More soon!
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